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Strange things in the desert, pinball machines and naked ladies! Part 2 of our 1,700 mile trip out west.
Tuesday, July 31st
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Yuma had little to offer us besides a good, clean motel with a great sign.
It was the drive north that provided some interesting sights. Based on my research from Roadside America, I knew of several places of interest. A tiny, tiny church was seen and passed, but the abandoned McPhaul suspension bridge was looked at, appreciated, and photographed.
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It was clear to me that the narrow bridge could not withstand modern traffic needs, but I was amused to know that the rerouting of the river, a new bridge location, and bad weather had all combined to destroy the replacement bridge in ’84.
We continued north, deep into the Yuma Proving Grounds. Soon we passed the two atomic cannons, weapons that sounded good on paper until it was realized that battlefield soldiers would be handling lots of nuclear warheads. Not the most secure way of dealing with atomic weapons. (– hee! — Ed) The program was scrapped because of that and many other reasons and the cannons parked on the side of the 59. Later in the drive, there was a massive white blimp, far off in the distance, on the ground, silhouetted by the mountain. Even without much as a frame of reference, I could tell it was big.

Turns out that it was a Tethered Aerostat Radar System. Twice as big as the Goodyear blimp and significantly more expensive, it was designed in part to detect low-flying drug-running planes.
I would be hard pressed to want to go to the city of Yuma, but the proving grounds have a museum and I’m a sucker for such places. Maybe another trip will take us this way, possibly one where we stay at the Shady Dell.
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Eventually we made it to our northern destination, Quartzsite, AZ, home of the Grave of Hi Jolly and the Quartzsite Yacht Club. The grave is a memorial to a Syrian-born man who came to the US to help the army develop a camel corp. The program never met the expectations of the government, and the camels were let loose in the desert to fend for themselves. Hi Jolly died in 1902, and the pyramid-shaped memorial was placed in the cemetery in 1935 by the Arizona Highway Department.
The Quartzsite Yacht Club has a slogan, “Long Time, No Sea.” They have t-shirts with that on it that members can get. But the place was closed, so I didn’t get my membership card and t-shirt. I need a t-shirt!
We headed east to Phoenix with no stops for sightseeing interruptions and arrived, hungry, in the late afternoon. My sweetie had spent some time here in Phoenix as a kid. So, after setting into the hotel we headed to a favorite destination, The Sugar Bowl. Mostly known for its ice cream , we had a little lunch before making a night of it at the Hotel Valley Ho.
The Valley Ho is a fantastic retro-modern hotel. Recently renovated, the place looks like money well-spent. Clean lines, lots of expensive-looking furniture scattered about and loads of details that complete the look. While the room was an off-season rate, our stay there was the biggest splurge of the trip. So was the much-needed massage I got at the spa. Driving and heavy luggage had conspired to make me achy.
Wednesday, August 1st
Phoenix-Flagstaff. Stayed with friends outside Flagstaff, AZ. While talking with one of them about the myriad of strange places that are around the country, I mentioned that Roden Crater, a longtime project of James Turrell, was not too far away. Shawn noted that not only was the crater literally just over the hill from where they lived were, but that he had seen James flying his plane many a time. Turrell in addition to being an artist, was a former CIA pilot. Shawn said that there were times when he pulled over and stopped driving just to watch Turrell fly his plane as he would cut through the sky putting the plane through all manner of amazing acrobatics.
Thursday, August 2nd
After fun with the folks in Flagstaff, we headed south for a little tour of Arizona. We drove up to the historic mining town of Jerome. Crazy mountain roads twisted and turned as we got into the town. Time constraints kept us from stopping and we headed on a back way to Prescott. Prescott was the former capital of Arizona and the city looks like old money. Had a really good meal. And continued on to Vegas.
Driving to Hoover Dam I noticed a smashed-up mobile crane near the massive construction site. Work on the huge Hoover Dam overpass was put drastically behind schedule when a windstorm blew down many of the cranes. Must have been a hell of a blow to bring them down like the one I saw.
Once home, we found that the annual Las Vegas Air-Conditioning Breakdown was right on schedule at our house, so a friend hosted us for a couple of nights until it was repaired. We dined at Tinoco’s with our host, and another good meal was had.
Friday, August 3rd
Gallery hopping. Had dinner with a good friend Matt and his girlfriend. Since we care about our friends and don’t care about clubbing, spending the evening with them was a perfect Friday night.
Saturday, August 4th
More time spent with Matt and his girl. The weekend started with a trip to Luv-It Custard, which is a neighbor to the Olympic Gardens strip club and can be found underneath the shadow of the Stratosphere on Oakey St. Another must-have Vegas food destination, it lived up to our memories. Matt and his girl decided that we needed to go to the Pinball Hall of Fame.
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I continue to love the Pinball Hall of Fame in part because they rotate machines on occasion (which is great for photography’s sake) and also because, on this last visit, Tim Arnolds (owner and operator) was there tending to one of the machines, cleaning and maintaining it. Previous interviews have made it clear that this has always been a labor of love. And it shows.
Sunday, August 5th
Our friend Steve had us over for drinks and food at his sweet downtown pad. We were talking about the relocation of the burlesque Exotic World museum from Helendale, CA, to Vegas. The Vegas venue has been closed, and I mentioned my disappointment at not seeing the place. Steve had met the guy who was running it and told me that he would see what he could do.
Monday, August 6th
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Steve came through, and I got to visit the Burlesque Hall of Fame (renamed from Exotic World USA.) The operator, Luke, opened it up for me. Development meetings, fund raising, and everyday life prevent the museum– a labor of love– from keeping full-time hours. It now resides next to the Commerce St. Gallery, but since these buildings have been sold for development (like Vegas needs more condos?!) the museum will be relocating sometime in the near future. For the time being, the collection of photos, memorabilia and costumes will be on display whenever the manager has time, like First Fridays.
After all of that, we flew home late that night and arrived in Atlanta at 8:30am. And that was the end of our vacation out west.
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This will be the last post of the vacation. We leave tomorrow, and I will be killed if time is spent blogging rather then packing. So on that note, a last post about the Vegas art scene.
The Las Vegas Weekly had an article on the arts scene last week. Its moderately contentious take was that there was an arts rivelary, high-art vs. low-brow. That eternal debate will rage on as long as snotty kids and up-tight art patrons both grab at the last glass of free wine offered at art galleries.
I had to put my 2 cents. While I didn’t get my letter to the editor published, the letters that did were pretty close to what I had to say. So, that being said, here’s what I had to say…
“As a former art installer at the Las Vegas Art Museum and LV
Guggenheim, I had to comment. While no longer a resident, my return
to Vegas for a summer vacation has me seeing Vegas’s cultural
offerings after a 9-month absence.
High culture/high art will always have a home in every city’s art
scene because it is the most accomplished and engaging. But the
high-kitsch/pop culture quality the city is nationally known for is
one that local artists can pull inspiration from. Art collector Wally
Goodman once said while speaking at Godt-Cleary, “Collect what you
love.” For many it is easy to love the widely-varied and
affordably-priced works that can be found on the street during First
Friday. As an owner of eight Shan Michael pieces (and one new
t-shirt, thanks Shan) I love his works and look forward to seeing his
continuing success.
I think it’s great that there is an open marketplace for art in Vegas
that allows a purchase starting at $20. The variety of prices and
stylistic offerings is cultivating buyers of art who otherwise would
not be inclined or be able to afford such a expense. Young collectors
may turn into clients for the new higher-end galleries. And for those
complaining about the lowest common denominator attending their
openings, I heard no comment of how that is impacting their bottom
line. It’s difficult to sympathize with their struggle; they can lock
their doors if they are so bothered.
It is encouraging to see the deep roots that the CAC, Arts Factory and
the Funkhouse have grown and maintained. Opening around these
established institutions and businesses are new generations of
additions, first like Dust and GC Arts, and now the Avant Arts
gallery, Holsum Lofts and Commerce Street Studios. Whoever their
target demographic, it is good that these venues are filling
storefronts within the Arts District and nearby areas.
Las Vegas will never turn into LA or NYC in terms of the broad
cultural offerings these cities have been developing for decades. But
I hear from friends that Libby Lumpkin is turning the Las Vegas Art
Museum into one worthy of being the city’s representative museum.
Additionally, Vegas is host to both its own unique Guggenheim venue
and home to the Pinball Hall of Fame and the Atomic Testing Museum.
That unique diversity deserves some celebration.
After this vacation, I look forward to returning to Atlanta to be a
cheerleader for Las Vegas artists and galleries and an advocate for
the city as a worthwhile destination to those looking for an
unexpected place for culture and art.”
I grabbed my friend Matt on his day off and hit the Pinball Hall of Fame and mini-golf again. He had had a bad start to the day so the distractions seemed to help. Many quarters were spent and I wished the place had a t-shirt
One of Vegas’s latest addition to the art scene is the Holsum Lofts.
Built in the 50’s, the Holsum Bread factory was reclaimed as commercial space and now has a collection of galleries as some tenants. While walking through one, I ran into an old acquaintance, Paco Alverez. He has been a player in the local art scene and is now working at the Neon Museum. It was great to catch up on the politics, and general news I had missed since moving. More good galleries are opening and the arts district looks healthy. Nice to see.
One of the Neon Museum’s major coups was the saving of a local modernist hotel landmark. Destined to be destroyed to make room for condos, the La Concha’s distinctive foyer will now be relocated on site of the future Neon Museum property. Vegas has lost much of its historic architecture and this was a rare win for preservationist.
After leaving Holsum Lofts, Matt and I were joined by my wife and at the nearby Tinoco’s. Housed in the Art’s Factory, this was our first visit for all of us. The meals were excellent. I had a veal, steak and chicken dish. Pounded flat and grilled, it was served on black rice and field mushrooms, with a mild sauce on top. Seriously wonderful.
Matt called it a night, and we met up with friends at the Sidebar, near Fremont St. The area around the heart of old Vegas is slowly coming up, scary enough to keep most people away but edgy enough to reward those who do. Sidebar is beautiful inside, with drink prices reflecting the classier décor. The bar is on a block being redeveloped by the new owners of the Lady Luck. That casino/hotel is in the closed renovation, but the free valet parking is still being run for the bar patrons and area visitors. It’s a nice service by the hotel owners, a convenience that makes that area’s lack of parking less of a concern.
Our friend Donald loves indie/new music, is a virtual ambassador to the city and knows lots of folks. Which was how we got to talk to Ronnie, the drummer for The Killers, when we first sat down. They had attended the We Are Scientist show at the Celebrity, and the two Killers who were there watched the show unmolested. People desperate for celebrity sighting are usually in the casinos, while someone with a high profile can do their thing downtown with a good chance of being left alone. Donald said We Are Scientist put on a really good show. Vegas had a big problem with a lack of venues for new bands with small but growing buzz. Often LA or Salt Lake City were the only places for music fans who didn’t want to spend $200 a ticket at a casino on an aging rock band or dance divas that refuse to retire. The Celebrity has been showing good bands recently, but Donald is worried that that may change for the worst.
I give the evening an A+. Hooray for good places that aren’t in casinos!
I did a quick hit & run of some of the Vegas art galleries Thursday. Dust Gallery, G C Gallery and the Funkhouse. The local art scene is continuing to build on previous successes, with the art event “First Friday” now averaging 7,000 people each month. I’m hoping to hit June’s “First Friday”, coming up on the 2nd.
The city’s City of 100 Murals project has loads of buildings sporting new art and the arts district is slowly filling with new galleries. One loss to the area is the collection of small apartment cottages currently home to artist Dray and his gallery Dray’s Place. The lot just sold 3 million and is to be demolished for a 42-story condo building.
What a wonderful time-suck the Pinball Hall of Fame & Pinball Museumis. We just wandered the place for 10 minutes before even settling on the first game. The 3 tween girls wandering the aisles were funny: they were overheard saying, “Let’s go back to the movie theater, I don’t feel safe in here.” But the lure of the machines was too much and they were last seen playing a mechanical driving game unmolested by prowling pervs.
This was my second visit, the first time I played some games there, and not the last. Seriously good fun. You have to love a museum that doesn’t close until 11pm most weekdays and midnight on Fridays and Saturdays.
We were almost late to the dollar theater, where we saw “American Dreamz.” The dark satire wasn’t as sharp as it could be, but definitely a well-spent $2.50
Sunday was spent with friends. The first part of the day we were playing Obstacle Art Golf at the Commerce Street Studios. The 12-hole course was $3 to play, fun to look at and a nice way to kill some time on a Sunday.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
And now for something completely different…
…getting to read the free Vegas weeklies reminds me I’ve forgotten how strange the city can be. We are trying to get an artist/art professor friend of our to call the number for the following ad, in the May 18th Las Vegas Weekly.
“Artist: Rare opportunity for female artist. Paid, F/T sculptor apprentice. Life size female nudes. Unusual medium. 2yr commitment. Salary + benefits, some travel. Spanish and/or Manderin helpful but not required. Possible live-in. Work is extremely dirty and brutal but is fulfilling& sexy, international, abeit obscure recognition.
Candidate: Female only, unencumbered, intellegent, focused, responsible, tough, broad artistic background. Comfortable w/ tool, dirt, nudity, deadlines. Must love the female form. Be studious, teachable, commited to artistic lifestyle. Age, race, orientation unimportant. Stamina & perserverance is. Call (702) 631-4456 (eves. Only for interview.) Portfolio Helpful”
Monday in Vegas.
It didn’t take long to reacquainted with places and sights I liked in Las Vegas. A quick two hour drive around town started down the Vegas strip. The bright sun let me take in the full visual explosion that’s the result of gambling’s success.
A quick trip to the Red Rooster Antique Mall had me looking over country-cute crap and over-priced Vegas memorabilia. The casinos ashtrays were catching my eye, but their prices kept me moving. $125… I don’t think so.
I did leave with a copy of the Art’s District’s newsletter and a flier for Miss Exotic World 2006. Sponsored by an former burlesque dancer, Dixie Evans owns a California ranch that houses the Exotic World Burlesque Museum with mementos and pictures of dancers from long ago. Ther are plans for the collection to be relocated to a dedicated museum in Las Vegas (how great would it be to have that one on the art installation resume). The yearly competition has girls from all over the globe coming in to shake their thing and be crowned queen of burlesque for the year. Margaret Cho will be hosting the event. Might I be going? The wife doesn’t sound totally opposed.
The arts newsletter told of a show called Obstacle Art Course”, a collection of miniature golf holes created by artists. If I don’t make it to Ms. Exotic World, I think gallery golf could tide me over if I am itching for an extra-curricular activity.
The part of the drive spent in rush hour traffic was rewarded by a short visit to the Las Vegas Pinball Hall of Fame & Pinball Museum. The off-strip site offers none of the glamour and glitz that casinos have to offer, but with all vintage machines playable it’s a better place to put your quarters. I walked the aisles of machines, just taking them in. On the wall is the letter proudly displayed that says that the museum is recognized as a non-profit. That had been the goal of the collection’s owner for years. Now part of that dream has come true. It will be interesting to see where it can take the museum now.
The last of the drive took me past the Guardian Angel Cathedral near the Wynn Resort. Wynn imploded the Desert Inn Casino to make his new place. It was the previous owner of the DI that gave the land to the Catholic Dioceses where the Cathedral was built in the 1963 . Its architect was Paul Williams who also designed the La Concha Hotel. While only the distinctive office of the La Concha still stands, the cathedral is not in danger. In addition to its swooping lines, the stained glass inside depicts the Sands, the Desert Inn and one other casino, all gone now. The stained glass artist Isabel Piczek decided that the church should reflect its environment. The fact that I had never visited the church before surprises me only because it has all the things I love, modern architecture, and a strange quality of sacred and profane. Closed when I drove by, I plan on visiting and taking some pictures if possible.
The best things in life are often the most frivilous.
Example #1 Beauty & The Geek 2
Watched last year, watching it now, not ashamed at all. Local connection… contestant Wes is a Georgia Tech (BA in computer science) and tracks monkeys with lasers. The show is better than you think.
Example #2 The Pinball Hall of Fame
My wife was reading from the Vegas Goths mailing list (which despite our move to Atlanta, she is still getting) that the Sin City’s Pinball Hall of Fame has finally opened its doors. This museum has been the longtime dream of Tim Arnold who has amassed a huge collection of privately owned pinball machines.
“Arnold owns one of the largest pinball collections in the world more than 1,000 by his estimation. Of course, that’s counting large, single pieces of machines older than he is.
But 400 of his games are ready to play, after Arnold painstakingly rebuilt them from existing parts by cannibalizing other machines and from junk heaps he has combed through for the last decade.”
From the Las Vegas SUN: Bumper Crop: Arnold flips for vintage pinball machines
Usually his warehouse was so packed that you couldn’t walk between the machines. But once a year he would have public fun-nights where he would clear out enough to have people over and play the games. All the machines were working and free to play.
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Now, his current place on the strip may be nothing more than a small storefront with no air conditioning. But, the man’s keeping his dream alive. And if that doesn’t work, check the last paragraph of this page He knows where the real money is.
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Vegas Goths Posting with Museum’s Location
“Greetings, if you get the chance please stop by the new `Pinball Museum’ located right next to the Tropicana Theater at Pecos and Tropicana. Two buddies of mine, Tim and Hippy, are finally realizing their dream and got the place up and running. They have a good selection of very old and newer machines. All priced at a quarter or two. These are really good guys that for years have put on the famous `Pinball Night’ for charity and they really could use your help. The place doesn’t have a sign and money is tight so advertising is right out for now, so please give them a hand and send this to all your friends and enemies alike!”
Sparky of Las Vegas- Tim Arnold Pinball Hall of Fame Museum
Pictures from the Tropicana Ave. Pinball of Fame – Las Vegas